Tasting Report from Croatia: Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival 2010

Peter Moser

Peter Moser, wine writer and editor of Falstaff Magazine (http://www.falstaff.at/), one of Austria’s most widely-read magazines, recently visited Croatia to attend the 2010 Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival, where he tasted some of Croatia’s finest wines from both the continental and coastal regions.

For posterity, I have compiled his tasting notes, recently published on Twitter (http://twitter.com/Falstaffmoser), and translated them from the German with the help of Google Translation and the Pons Deutsch-English dictionary.

Without further adieu, here’s Peter Moser:

Intro

“The trip to the Festival was more than worth it. Extremely well-organized. Will visit next year. Recommended.

My focus was on finding the best of the best. Falstaff will conduct a more extensive tasting in May.

WHITE WINES

Korak 2008 Sauvignon Blanc; Plešivica, Croatia

Spice, fresh gooseberries, freshly cut grass, grapefruit zest with elderflower (hollerblüten) nuances. Racy, with nettles, tropical fruit, lemony. Good length. 89 Points

Enjingi 2003 Venje Cuvée (GR/RR/SB/PG/TR); Kutjevo, Croatia

Medium yellow. Fine, well-integrated wood notes, ripe stone fruits (“steinobstanklänge”), herb seasoning, yellow tropical fruit, mineral. Dusty (“Stoffig”), creamy texture, fine structure, quite delicate, deliberate oxidation note, honey, floral hints, very good length, complex, silky reverberation, independent style, good potential. 91 Points

 Adžić 2009 Graševina; Kutjevo, Croatia

Medium yellow-green. 12.5% alcohol. Orange zest, fine herb seasoning, lemony shades, nutty, green apple twist. Dusty, apricot touch, lively, sweet stone fruits.  Uncomplicated food companion. 88 Points

Galić 2008 Graševina; Kutjevo, Croatia

12.8% alcohol. Medium yellow-green. Fine apple fruit, delicate herbal spiciness, mandarin orange zest. Juicy, balanced, fresh, very approachable (“trinkanimierend”). Fine grade stone fruit, extracted. For me one of the best dry white wines of Croatia. 91 Points

Krauthaker 2009 Viognier; Kutjevo, Croatia

13% alcohol. Light Green. Marzipan, white stone fruits, floral nuances, appetizing varietal aroma. Yellow apple, complex, delicate acidity, dusty echoes, balanced, a perfect summer wine. 90 Points

Krauthaker 2009 Zelenac (Rotgipfler); Kutjevo, Croatia

Light yellow-green. Apricot fruit, delicate blossom honey, ripe tropical fruit, smoky mineral. Elegant, subtle residual sweetness, fresh, spicy appeal, very good length, with potential for further development. 90 Points

Krauthaker 2008 Chardonnay Rosenberg; Kutjevo, Croatia

Bright green. A touch of flint, brioche, grapefruit zest, some marzipan, yellow apple. Complex, good balance, fine extract sweetness, yellow fruit, sticks well, a versatile food companion. 91Points

Next I tasted a range of high-quality Istrian Malvasia, although some tend to be fat and oxidative in character. The best came from Roxanich:

photo by Cliff Rames

Roxanich 2008 Malvasia Classica; Istria, Croatia

13.8% alcohol. Deep yellow gold. Grapefruit zest, herbs, yellow fruits, dark spice, delicate ethereal nuance. Delicate aromas of oregano. Elegant texture, mineral, well sustained, powerful, almost reminiscent of Burgundy. Salty nuances, great food companion. 91Points

As always, Kozlović was also very good.

Kozlović 2009 Malvasia; Istria, Croatia

13% alcohol. Bright yellow. Hints of pears, fresh fruit, delicate floral aromas. Lively, yellow apple fruit, racy acidity, lemon reverberation. Easy-drinking, approachable style. Harmonious and fresh. 89 Points

Kozlović  2007 Malvasia Réserve; Istria, Croatia

14% alcohol. Deep yellow gold. Floral, ripe peach, gooseberry, acacia. Resinous, full-bodied texture with a tender marshmallow texture. Elegant, fresh structure. Rose petals, reminiscent of Gewürztraminer. Caramel notes, peach fruit, mineral.  90 Points

Kozlović 2006 Malvasia “Santa Lucia”; Istria, Croatia

15% alcohol. Deep yellow gold. Ripe pear fruit, subtle herb seasoning, dried apricots, juicy pears. Richly extracted with a trace of residual sugar providing width. Hints of minerals, showing good length with salty finish. Has aging potential. 91 Points

Matošević 2008 Malvasia “Alba Barrique”; Istria, Croatia

13.5% alcohol. Light yellow gold. Fine herbal spice with mandarin orange zest, grapefruit, floral hints. Elegant, juicy, balanced, fine texture, well-integrated wood, good finish, mineral reverberation. Amazingly fresh. Has aging potential. Fine food companion. 90 Points

Poletti 2008 Malvasia; Istria, Croatia

13.3% alcohol. Mean, green yellow. On the nose notes of fine flower honey, apple and pear. Juicy tropical fruit on the palate. Vibrant structure. Enticing and approachable. Makes you want another drink. 89 Points

Meneghetti 2008 Bijelo (Chardonnay/Pinot Gris blend); Istria, Croatia

13.1% alcohol. Deep yellow green. Toasted biscuit, herb seasoning, honey melon, multi-layered. Extract sweetness, delicate touch of caramel, pineapple, peach. Racy structure, tender texture of Turkish delight. Yellow tropical fruit in the finish with dusty mineral reverberations. Good food companion. A mix of Istria and  Slovenian Biostar Alex Kristančič. 90 Points

Trapan 2008 Malvasia “Ponente”; Istria, Croatia

13% alcohol. Medium yellow-gold. Spicy, herbs and spices and orange zest, elegant, balanced. Delicate notes of honey. Fresh structure. A touch of citronnella on the finish. Tangy, easy-drinking, fine food companion. 90 Points

Next I tasted an interesting white wine made from an indigenous grape from the island of Pag, Gegić, made by the Boškinac winery:

Boškinac 2009 Gegić; Pag, Hrvatsko Primorje, Croatia

Gegic grapes

12.6% alcohol. Bright yellow. Ripe pear fruit, fine leaf spice, yellow apple. Mineral, good complexity, ripe white fruit, racy structure, a versatile food companion, light-footed, good length. 90 Points

To finish up the whites, I tried two Pošip wines from Dalmatia. My favorite comes from Korta Katarina.

Korta Katarina 2007 Pošip; Pelješac, South Dalmatia, Croatia

14.7% alcohol. Bright yellow. Smoky, complex aromas that are reminiscent of spicy herbs, honey, candied orange zest, with some dusty mineral notes. Round, elegant almost oily texture. Subtle orange notes on palate. Very good finish. 91 Points

Grgić 2007 Pošip; Korčula, Croatia

Medium yellow-green. White pear fruit, pineapple, a touch of vanilla, lemon zest. Juicy, good complexity, structure, racy, green apple, white tropical fruit, very lively, easy-drinking. 90 Points

Plenković 2009 Zlatan Pošip; Hvar, Croatia13% alcohol. Deep yellow, gold reflections. Honey, nuts, bitter orange zest, floral aromas of acacia. Taut, fresh, racy green apple. Approachable with a lemony mineral finish. A little commercial but well done. 89 Points

 

 

 

 

Posip grapes

RED WINES.

Roxanich 2006 Super Istrian Cuvée (40% CS / 40% ME, 20% Gamay); Istria, Croatia

13.5% alcohol. Dark ruby. Delicate violets, ripe cherries, a hint of precious wood, mandarin orange zest, dusty blackberry. Fine extract sweetness, with a refined structure and very good length showing hints of chocolate and delicate strawberry fruit in the aftertaste. At the moment the flavors are a little too present, need time to integrate. 92 Points

Meneghetti 2007 Crno (Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend); Istria, Croatia

14.1% alcohol. Intense chocolate note. Subtle floral hints, with dusty herbs, spices, nougat, orange peel. Elegant, balanced, perfectly integrated tannins, slightly bitter chocolate finish. Already approachable. Very versatile, full of finesse. 93 Points

Boškinac 2006 “Boškinac” (Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot blend); Pag, Hrvatsko Primorje, Croatia

14% alcohol. Deep, bold ruby color.  A touch of fine chocolate, dark berries, delicate wood, pleasant tobacco essence. Elegant on the palate, with a subtle fruit glaze flavor, well-integrated tannins, fine arch of acidity. Firm, palate coating, drinking very well already.  Good aging potential. 91 Points

Carić 2007 Plovac Ploski Barrique Plavac Mali; Hvar, Southern Dalmatia, Croatia

14.3% alcohol. Deep dark ruby. Clean black berry fruit, delicate wood notes, needs some air. Complex, powerfully present tannins, which are still very demanding and tight. Chocolate and mineral reverb on finish. Very good aging potential. 90 Points

Korta Katarina 2007 Plavac Mali; Pelješac, South Dalmatia, Croatia

photo by Cliff Rames

14.5% alcohol. Dark ruby, watery rim. Fine violet notes with black cherries, cloves and inviting nougat.  Soft creamy texture. Complex palate, tight minerals with delicate orange flavor and black fruits on finish.  89 Points

Miloš 2005 Stagnum; Pelješac, South Dalmatia, Croatia

14.3% Medium ruby. Wild strawberry preserves. Beeswax and fine floral notes, acacia flowers –  attractive. On the palate, dusty strawberry jam, some raspberry sauce, acacia honey and nougat in the finish. Powerful with very good length. Great food companion with refreshing finish. Good aging potential. 92 Points

 Andro Tomić 2007 Plavac Mali Barrique; Hvar, South Dalmatia, Croatia

14.3% alcohol. Deep dark ruby with opaque core, clear rim. Plum, cocoa, dried fruit, orange zest. Juicy on the palate, with prunes and a fresh acidic arch. Independent style with black currant and chocolate reverberating on the finish. 91 Points

And many, many more ….”

http://zagrebwinegourmet.com/